ALEXANDER McQUEEN舉辦展覽《ROSES》回顧玫瑰花開花落的一刻

17.12.2019

Simon Au

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十年突然又過去，時裝鬼才Alexander McQueen一生的傳奇仍然烙印在我們心中。這位設計大師曾經這樣形容玫瑰：「我用花是因為他們會枯萎。」花落花開，本是最自然不過的事情；對他而言，卻激發無窮的靈感，亦成為Alexander McQueen的經典元素。現任創意總監Sarah Burton以McQueen 2007春夏系列以及個人在今年設計的Red Rose dress為主題，於英倫Old Bond Street旗艦店舉辦展覽《Roses》，揭示花朵代表自然力量的根源。

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#McQueenRoses Students from around the United Kingdom attend a preview of #McQueenRoses in our London flagship at #27OldBondStreet. The educational series began with a masterclass with Creative Director Sarah Burton and Head of Atelier Judy Halil, and will continue throughout 2020. Video by @MashaVasyukova. #AlexanderMcQueen

A post shared by Alexander McQueen (@alexandermcqueen) on Nov 29, 2019 at 8:36am PST

關於Alexander McQueen的展覽，向來反應熱烈，像2011年紐約大都會藝術博物館（Metropolitan Museum of Art）舉辦的《Alexander McQueen：野性之美》（Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty）回顧展，便創下高達66萬人次的觀展紀錄。至於位於倫敦Old Bond Street的旗艦店二樓的展廳於年初開幕，存放品牌過去的作品、藝術品以至攝影作品，讓一眾Alexander McQueen追隨者了解更多他背後的設計想法。

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#McQueenRoses Now open at #27OldBondStreet, our London flagship. Creative Director, Sarah Burton, has curated a garden of flower narratives which begins with the juxtaposition of two spectacular dresses: her Red Rose dress of Autumn/Winter 2019, and the floral finale dress Lee Alexander McQueen made for Sarabande in Spring/Summer 2007. The installation unfolds into an examination of the technical feats and the back and forth between present and past, nature and craft which have blossomed into so many varieties over time. Roses can be found on the second floor of the London store. Video by @MashaVasyukova. #AlexanderMcQueen

A post shared by Alexander McQueen (@alexandermcqueen) on Dec 10, 2019 at 3:01am PST

是次《Roses》展覽最大的亮點分別是Sarah Burton在2019秋冬推出的旋轉紅色玫瑰裙，另一個亮點是Alexander McQueen本人在2007年春夏的紅色花苞禮服，花辦被薄紗層裹覆，展現朦朧的浪漫美學；展出的禮服背後，還播放記錄設計師模擬花瓣狀的3-D形式，是怎樣變成實體服裝的影片，堵強資訊性。關於這條裙子，Alexander McQueen曾言：「我用花是因為他們會枯萎。所以這個設計才會有脆弱的部分，是在說明沒有甚麼是永遠的，美貌會消失，很多東西都是一體兩面，像是美麗的容貌和衰老、生命和死亡。」自然，成為他當時想表達的概念；慶幸在今天，我們依然看到他與生俱來的想像力。

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#McQueenRoses Opening today at #27OldBondStreet, our London flagship. Creative Director, Sarah Burton, has curated a garden of flower narratives which begins with the juxtaposition of two spectacular dresses: her Red Rose dress of Autumn/Winter 2019, and the floral finale dress Lee Alexander McQueen made for Sarabande in Spring/Summer 2007. The installation unfolds into an examination of the technical feats and the back and forth between present and past, nature and craft which have blossomed into so many varieties over time. Roses can be found on the second floor of the store and opens to the public today. Video by @MashaVasyukova. #AlexanderMcQueen

A post shared by Alexander McQueen (@alexandermcqueen) on Nov 30, 2019 at 9:06am PST

View this post on Instagram

#McQueenRoses Now open at #27OldBondStreet, our London flagship. Creative Director, Sarah Burton, has curated a garden of flower narratives which begins with the juxtaposition of two spectacular dresses: her Red Rose dress of Autumn/Winter 2019, and the floral finale dress Lee Alexander McQueen made for Sarabande in Spring/Summer 2007. The installation unfolds into an examination of the technical feats and the back and forth between present and past, nature and craft which have blossomed into so many varieties over time. Roses can be found on the second floor of the store and opens to the public today. Video by @MashaVasyukova. #AlexanderMcQueen

A post shared by Alexander McQueen (@alexandermcqueen) on Dec 1, 2019 at 10:51am PST