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還記得今年Yohji Yamamoto春夏大秀穿上一件印上「NO FUTURE」的黑色長外套,當時他直言:「地球將變得瘋狂,真的很瘋狂。我擔心地球會滅亡。 」面對崩壞的世界,全球水位上升、森林大火不斷以及疫症蔓延等等,Balenciaga在2020秋冬系列延續品牌當季廣告「末世啟示錄」的主題,打造一個被洪水淹沒的汪洋世界,模特兒水花四濺中展現人類剛毅一面;末日之前,我們還要好好的生存下去。
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創意總監Demna Gvasalia近幾季擺脫高調的誇張,但噱頭依舊,勝在主題、佈置、配樂統統細緻起來。御用製作團隊la Mode en Images將秀場化成汪洋,前三排的座椅都被淹沒(沒有了所謂的front row),頂部的巨大屏幕伴隨著光影轉換,海洋、雷電、烏雲、晚霞、晨曦等各個場景交替出現,締造驚心動魄的視覺衝擊。整個系列仍然是Demna主打的吊詭式哥德風格,模特兒削骨般的妝容配搭方形和蠶形輪廓的服裝,在莊嚴中把剛強與力量融為一體。
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另外,招牌的誇張墊肩兩端,聳起成尖角,強調曲線的西裝和外套圓潤不失硬朗質感;多套全黑造型展現個性與陰郁、印花元素裙裝特別前衛,飛行員夾克制服亦成為焦點。袋款方面,Nicolas Ghesquière時期的Motorcycle Bag在千禧年代大受歡迎,今季回歸並易名為「Neo」,外型更為硬挺,合符今下box bag潮流。
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雖然像Saint Laurent、Burberry等等都有用過雨水作為秀場設計,無疑Demna Gvasalia這場秀是最有意景的:天空劃過的飛鳥,大海從漆黑的波瀾起伏,人類永遠只是宇宙裡的浮塵,盡情的發揮想像,釋放自我,才是今天活在當下的新標準。
圖片由品牌提供