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                    為電影加分，古著的美不限於款式 | 專訪香港電影美術學會副會⻑劉天蘭                </h1><!--.title-->
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                    06.01.2025                </div><!--.dateWrapper-->
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                    <div class="editor">杜比綽</div><!--.editor--><div class="photographer">PONG、KI & INTERNET</div><!--.photographer-->                </div><!--.nameWrapper-->
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<p>劉天蘭（Tina）以溫哥華華埠小姐冠軍的身份出道，多年來除了以幕前的身份參與演藝工作之外，更是香港著名的形象設計師、編輯、作家、電台台長，近年則以香港電影美術學會副主席為人所識，去年聯同香港文化博物館舉行的「無中生有—香港電影美術及服裝造型展」更為香港盛事，貴為經驗豐富的電影美術及服裝界代表人物之一，對古著亦自然有獨特的見解。<br />
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<h2>另類古著迷</h2>
<p>「Vintage基本上指二十至九十九年前的衣服，超過的話一般稱為古董。」Tina本認為自己稱不上「古著迷」，「我喜歡各種不同Vintage的衣服，尤其年輕時喜歡二○及三○年代，Art Deco時期的服飾。每隔十或二十年，當代的服裝風格都有非常鮮明的分別，喜歡衣服如我便會對舊衣物特別有興趣，而自己收藏得最多的類型就是旗袍，無論是家人或媽媽留給我，又或者是電影界的老前輩例如夏夢小姐及韋偉前輩都把自己的旗袍送給我。」除了具東方特色的舊衣物之外，Tina到西方國家如巴黎、倫敦及紐約等地亦會探訪不同的古著店，「我喜歡去不同的Vintage Shop，店內的Vintage專家收藏着不同品牌的高級定制，由古董至vintage的級數都有，而且不乏大牌子如Nina Ricci、Schiaparelli及Balenciaga等。」言談間，Tina推翻了自己不是古著迷的說法：「我看到舊的衣服會感到很開心，其實都真的喜歡Vintage，可能已經算是一個『迷』。」<br />
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				<img decoding="async" class="img-responsive" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/inner-710918-screenshot-2025-01-06-162651.jpg" itemprop="thumbnail" alt=""  /></a>
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<div id="attachment_215779" class="imgWrapper wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-215779" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/inner-948980-screenshot-2025-01-06-162617.jpg" alt="夏夢小姐所贈予Tina的旗袍曾展覽於2011年香港歷史博物館的旗袍展覽。（《2011年香港歷史博物館旗袍展覽特刊專輯》）" width="368" height="616" class="size-full wp-image-215779" /><p id="caption-attachment-215779" class="wp-caption-text">夏夢小姐所贈予Tina的旗袍曾展覽於2011年香港歷史博物館的旗袍展覽。（《2011年香港歷史博物館旗袍展覽特刊專輯》）</p></div><br />
<div id="attachment_215778" class="imgWrapper wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-215778" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/inner-302346-038-805x1024.jpg" alt="韋偉小姐贈予Tina，出自香港老牌名店張水法 Zeepha Couture手筆，以旗袍為基礎的訂製服裝。" width="805" height="1024" class="size-large wp-image-215778" /><p id="caption-attachment-215778" class="wp-caption-text">韋偉小姐贈予Tina，出自香港老牌名店張水法 Zeepha Couture手筆，以旗袍為基礎的訂製服裝。</p></div></p>
<h2>「古著曾經都是最新興的時裝」</h2>
<p>常言道「時裝潮流是一個循環」，Tina更認為古著於當中佔一重要席位，「其實古著曾經都是最新興的時裝，是當代大家覺得新穎的設計，當然最後亦會被淘汰，甚至有人會覺得過氣，時裝就是一個周而復始的循環。而古著有自己的特色、風格，其實衣服可以被看作一個個載體，被設計就是代表着當時社會的美學、文化，甚或當時的生活風格。所以我認為古著永遠都存在於時裝的循環當中，尤其對新一代設計時裝的年輕人，他們都需要以古著甚至古董作參考，在源遠流長的歷史當中，找到無論物料、手工、技術於不同年代的特色。」</p>
<p>作為生活文化的載體，古著對電影更有着一定的參考價值：「我們做服裝指導需要透過髮型、妝容以及服裝令角色更立體化，所以在服裝設定上必需要切合劇本所講述的年代。雖然在網絡上、雜誌上都可以找到參考資料，但有一件真正的舊衣物在手上，會有更大的參考作用，你可以透過衣服去了解到當時的物料、工藝等，令我們更容易將人物的造型做得更貼近當年、更真實。」Tina在服指與時裝均有一定的地位及經驗，所以特別欣賞將年代感表現得貼切的電影，「我觀看一部講述舊年代的電影，如果當中的服裝做得到位，就會很佩服，亦會很開心，始終要做出以前衣服的那種感覺、味道，加上做舊等：所以以電影來說，不同年代衣服可以做出古著的味道，自不然會為電影加分，更會提醒到自己做的時候都要做到同樣高度。」在服裝指導這個崗位多年，雖然Tina沒試過以古著作為戲服，但卻曾經用過古著布去製作戲服，「在拍攝《東成西就2011》的時候，因為鍾鎮濤的角色是一個過氣明星，但又留戀自己於七○年代呼風喚雨的風光，所以就要為他打造充滿七十年代風味的戲服，幸運地找到一幅七○年代的古著布料，而且布料的碼數之長更足夠多造一套給替身。」</p>
<div id="attachment_215775" class="imgWrapper wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-215775" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/inner-515725-039-1024x683.jpg" alt="《東成西就2011》中鍾鎮濤的戲服以七○年代的古著布料製作而成。" width="1024" height="683" class="size-large wp-image-215775" /><p id="caption-attachment-215775" class="wp-caption-text">《東成西就2011》中鍾鎮濤的戲服以七○年代的古著布料製作而成。</p></div>
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