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                    古著迷的自白｜古著研究組Vintage Style Research David Cheng的私心推                </h1><!--.title-->
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                    06.01.2025                </div><!--.dateWrapper-->
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                    <div class="editor">杜比綽</div><!--.editor--><div class="photographer">Ki、Pong</div><!--.photographer-->                </div><!--.nameWrapper-->
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                        <p>香港的古著再次迎來熱潮，除了市面上有更多的古著店，當然亦不乏古著愛好者的湧現，今次就找來三位古著迷，講述由初次接觸古著到愛上古著的心路歷程，其中更有多件古著的分享。</p>
<div class="imgWrapper">
<div id="attachment_215763" class="imgWrapper wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-215763" class="wp-image-215763 size-large" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/inner-681650-16-2-819x1024.jpg" alt="16_2" width="819" height="1024" /><p id="caption-attachment-215763" class="wp-caption-text">David Cheng Founder @ Vintage Style Research 古著年資：二十年</p></div>
</div>
<h2>第一次接觸古著的經過？</h2>
<p>第一次接觸古著是二十年前，就讀中二，當時在旺角、尖沙咀、銅鑼灣等地方可以輕易找到，加上本地媒體以及日本雜誌大量有關古著的報道，算是香港第一輪的古著熱潮，就在那時入手了人生第一件古著，一件印有米奇老鼠的T恤，記得圖案都開始褪色，絕對算不上是貴重的古著，但穿上身後就感到有種奇特的歸屬感。慢慢就開始透過網絡、雜誌等的途徑去了解古著，一理解到原來有年代、有歷史的才算是古著，而不是舊的、二手的衣服就可稱為古著，繼而再去了解不同年代古著的特色。大概一年後，便入手了自己第一件所謂的True Vintage，一條一九四七年的牛仔褲，那牛仔褲有極多的『貓鬚』、『蜂巢』痕跡。</p>
<div class="imgWrapper"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-215762" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/inner-823809-image-8044267-1024x1024.jpeg" alt="image-8044267" width="1024" height="1024" /></div>
<h2>熱愛古著的原因是甚麼？</h2>
<p>古著的褪色、顏色、質感、當中的人情味，是令我一直都不斷地找古著，想了解更深入、研究更多的原因，加上在玩了多年古著後，在本地或外國都認識到很多不同的朋友，而在大家交流之下，又會再學到更多不同的東西，每一次都仍然有驚喜。玩古著有種很夢幻的感覺，我們有很多聚會，記得第一次聚會以牛仔為主題，但當天突然迎來酷熱天氣警告，但大家依然堅持穿牛仔褲，這是其中一個很夢幻的時刻。另外一個夢幻的地方就因為古著而認識到以前的古著偶像，例如日本BerBerJin的店長、與The Vintage Showroom的主理人Doug Gunn同台分享工裝，古著令我的夢想成真。</p>
<h2>ANJ-3 Flight Jacket</h2>
<div class="imgWrapper"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-215764" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/inner-877936-17-2-819x1024.jpg" alt="17_2" width="819" height="1024" /></div>
<p>這件是A2及G1兩件最標誌性的飛行服的混合版，一九四五年美國軍方想將海軍與陸軍的軍服統一，以節省成本，但這件外套沒有在實戰中使用過，而且只推出一年時間，可以看到外套沒有任何標誌，因為軍方後來將標誌拿走再讓A&amp;F在市場上售賣，古著界亦一直不確定這外套的存在。雖然我在一些軍品的書本上有見過，但卻直到一個收藏家『退坑』才找到這件外套。</p>
<h2>M-42 Paratrooper Jump Jacket</h2>
<div class="imgWrapper"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-215765" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/inner-983461-18-2-819x1024.jpg" alt="18_2" width="819" height="1024" /></div>
<p>這件Jump Jacket於古著界的盛事Inspiration Tokyo中購入，首先這外套非常罕有，加上這件是Deadstock，全新沒有洗過，加上很少會有皮章並印有人名，見到的時候覺得有點「Too good to be ture」，所以都檢查多次才確定是真的古著。而這件外套亦有很多有趣的細節，例如裝小刀的暗袋、分辨真偽的三角形車線、內裏的布邊等等。</p>
<h2>US Army Brown Denim Pullover</h2>
<div class="imgWrapper"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-215766" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/inner-101168-19-1-819x1024.jpg" alt="19_1" width="819" height="1024" /></div>
<div class="imgWrapper"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-215767" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/inner-755545-20-1-819x1024.jpg" alt="20_1" width="819" height="1024" /></div>
<p>生產於一九○五至一九一○年的Pullover，為當時美軍做雜務時所穿，一戰後被留在法國，及後一個獵人將其改成現在的樣貌，更方便打獵時穿著。改動包括將pullover改成開胸有鈕扣的設計，並注入常見於當時獵裝、搭載動物圖案鈕扣，又為其加上兩個口袋。雖然很多人對改動過的古著不感興趣，但我就覺得這件古著在改動過後，有一個很特別的特色。</p>
<h2>Texas Ranger Overalls</h2>
<div class="imgWrapper"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-215768" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/inner-889156-21-1-819x1024.jpg" alt="21_1" width="819" height="1024" /></div>
<div class="imgWrapper"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-215769" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/inner-903992-22-819x1024.jpg" alt="22" width="819" height="1024" /></div>
<div class="imgWrapper"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-215770" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/inner-163114-23-819x1024.jpg" alt="23" width="819" height="1024" /></div>
<p>一條一八九○年的牛仔褲，從設計上來看會覺得很新穎，不像是百多年前的產物，例如是袋蓋、大腿後置的補強等，當然設定上亦有當年的特色，例如是腰位用作扣吊帶的鈕扣位、背扣等等。這牛仔褲的故事亦十分有趣，當時德薩斯州仍未被納入成為美國的其中一個州分，為了要對抗當地的流寇自組而成的十人軍隊，加上因為騎馬所以褲腳被修短，這條褲上的所有洗水及補強都是原裝的，所以十分珍貴。</p>
<h2>K Jacket</h2>
<div class="imgWrapper"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-215760" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/inner-273550-24-819x1024.jpg" alt="24" width="819" height="1024" /></div>
<div class="imgWrapper"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-215761" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/inner-946626-25-819x1024.jpg" alt="25" width="819" height="1024" /></div>
<p>Corset Jacket是二○至三○年代很流行的款式，基本上每個階層都會穿、比較鬆軟的皮褸，因為很多時候都是以豬皮、鹿皮這類材料構成，最有名的用家當然是愛因斯坦，他所穿的是LEVI&#8217;S出品，而這件則是O&#8217;Connor, Moffatt &amp; Co.的出品。O&#8217;Connor, Moffatt &amp; Co.由澳洲人創立，即使經歷過三藩市大地震、經濟不景等仍然有好的業績，而這件Corset Jacket就是當時男裝部成立時所推出的衣服。</p>
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