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                        <p>「世界很簡單，人類卻很複雜」，在人類不斷進化的過程中，由完全裸露到對時裝的渴求，追求的都是「包裝」。不知何時，人漸漸變得害怕在人前顯露赤裸裸的自我，每個人，或多或少也會為自己戴上了一、兩副面具，它可以是笑容滿臉，也可以是冷酷無情。或許人生真的如戲，就正如最近看的一齣戲《小丑》，漸漸變得蒼白的臉頰和扭曲的笑容，他選擇戴上了這幅面具，對比起那些裸露的臉孔，他，活得更悠然自在；他，比任何人更明白戴上面具比脫下面具的虛偽來得更要真實，也體驗了義大利小說家Luigi Pirandello的一句話，「人戴上了假面才是真實，裸露的面孔才是真正的假面」。</p>
<div class="imgWrapper" style="padding-left: 30px;">
<div id="attachment_125959" class="imgWrapper wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-125959" class="wp-image-125959" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/01-4-1024x640.jpg" alt="01" width="800" height="640" /><p id="caption-attachment-125959" class="wp-caption-text">《JOKER》中小丑ARTHUR面具下，是張有著說不出無奈與委屈的面孔。</p></div>
</div>
<div class="imgWrapper">
<p>回看歷史，人類佩戴面具早已是根深蒂固，由最早源於古時獵人相信獵物是有靈魂的，為了不讓獵物認出容貌而戴上面具；到古老的非洲文化中，面具是對神明的敬意；再到中國史冊中用作神方相氏的驅疫辟邪之用；或是古時歐洲流行修飾臉型的MORETTA及BAUAT面具，以至現今的威尼斯面具、日本的傳統戲劇面具，及中國傳統戲曲的面譜。可是面具不單單只是用作遮掩面部或身分，其實在許多體現社會文化的電影中，它可以是1989年《蝙蝠俠》、1994年《The Mask》中英雄的標誌； 亦可以是2004年《SAW》中恐懼的來源； 它更可以是2005年《V For Vendetta》、2019年《Joker》中革命強而有力的象徵。</p>
<div id="attachment_125964" class="imgWrapper wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-125964" class="size-full wp-image-125964" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/05-1.jpg" alt="古時傳統的非洲面具" width="350" height="263" /><p id="caption-attachment-125964" class="wp-caption-text">古時傳統的非洲面具。</p></div>
<div id="attachment_126202" class="imgWrapper wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-126202" class="size-full wp-image-126202" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/03-2.jpg" alt="歐洲古時用作防曬與飾飾臉型的MORETTA面具" width="500" height="624" /><p id="caption-attachment-126202" class="wp-caption-text">歐洲古時用作防曬與飾飾臉型的MORETTA面具。</p></div>
<div id="attachment_126203" class="imgWrapper wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-126203" class="size-full wp-image-126203" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/04-2.jpg" alt="1994年《The Mask》電影海報。" width="2820" height="4230" /><p id="caption-attachment-126203" class="wp-caption-text">1994年《The Mask》電影海報。</p></div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
</div>
<div class="imgWrapper"></div>
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<div id="attachment_126204" class="imgWrapper wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-126204" class="size-full wp-image-126204" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/05-2.jpg" alt="2005年《V For Vendetta》。" width="1189" height="1600" /><p id="caption-attachment-126204" class="wp-caption-text">2005年《V For Vendetta》。</p></div>
<p>既然面具離不開歷史與文化，又怎能不談同樣與我們生活密不可分的時裝？“Face mask”的出現早已不是新鮮事，由最早期「蒙面時代」的開國功臣Maison Margiela，到創意鬼才Viktor &amp; Rolf，甚至是Gucci的Alessandro Michele，或是蒙面時裝博客Checking Invoices，也一一告訴你，蒙面不是要掩蓋自我，而是更能把「我」展露無遺的一種媒介，讓我們能隨心所欲的在時裝舞台上表演真我。 無論世界怎麼變，面具下你與我所追求的，也從不會改變。</p>
<div class="imgWrapper">
<div id="attachment_126205" class="imgWrapper wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-126205" class="wp-image-126205 size-full" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/06-2.jpg" alt="06" width="1916" height="3000" /><p id="caption-attachment-126205" class="wp-caption-text">Maison Margiela 1995年的秋冬秀上的純色頭罩。</p></div>
</div>
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<div id="attachment_126206" class="imgWrapper wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-126206" class="size-full wp-image-126206" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/07-1.jpg" alt="Viktor &amp; Rolf 2016高訂系列的娃娃頭套。" width="1104" height="736" /><p id="caption-attachment-126206" class="wp-caption-text">Viktor &amp; Rolf 2016高訂系列的娃娃頭套。</p></div>
<div id="attachment_126207" class="imgWrapper wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-126207" class="size-full wp-image-126207" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/08.png" alt="在Fendi 2020春夏秀上，坐在第一排吸引全場目光的蒙面時裝博客 – Checking Invocies" width="476" height="598" /><p id="caption-attachment-126207" class="wp-caption-text">在Fendi 2020春夏秀上，坐在第一排吸引全場目光的蒙面時裝博客 – Checking Invocies</p></div>
</div>
<p>說到近期最深刻應該會是MARGIELA的2020春夏秀，模特兒Leon Dame以奇特台步及其張力壓倒全場，</p>
<p>這種特色正正便是他無形的「面具」，它不一定是實在，更可以是一種專屬的展現方式。況且Margiela是「蒙面時裝」的先行者，從1989年第一場時裝秀訴說著模糊身分的棉布面罩、再到1995年秋冬推出的純色頭罩，都徹徹底底蓋過模特兒的樣貌，簡單地把那種前衛和超現實主義投射於每人的腦海中，令人至今仍歷歷在目。但誰又會想到17年後的Margiela 2012秋冬高訂系列，John Galliano再次把「面具」帶回來，浮現的卻是一張又一張鑲著無數水晶的無臉面具，你可以說是喧賓奪主，但又不得不承認觀眾瞬間被吸進品牌的時裝黑洞裏。再說GUCCI 2019秋冬的時裝秀，先是利用了歐洲源遠流長的陰陽神Hermaphroditus面具作邀請函，並透過秀上模特兒各式各樣的面具，令人聯想起16、17世紀文藝復興，那種多元文化的模樣，也似是心思細密的Alessandro在訴說著面具的哲理。</p>
<div id="attachment_126208" class="imgWrapper wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-126208" class="size-full wp-image-126208" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/09-2.jpg" alt="Margiela 2020春夏秀上的模特兒Leon Dame，奇特台步以及被人稱為怒氣沖沖的表情瞬間在巴黎引起話題。" width="2560" height="1440" /><p id="caption-attachment-126208" class="wp-caption-text">Margiela 2020春夏秀上的模特兒Leon Dame，奇特台步以及被人稱為怒氣沖沖的表情瞬間在巴黎引起話題。</p></div>
<div id="attachment_126209" class="imgWrapper wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-126209" class="size-full wp-image-126209" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/10-2.jpg" alt="Gucci秋冬2019秀上帶著古典氣息的金色假面。" width="1920" height="2880" /><p id="caption-attachment-126209" class="wp-caption-text">Gucci秋冬2019秀上帶著古典氣息的金色假面。</p></div>
<p>我相信每人對時裝裏面具的定義都不一樣，它可以是一塊薄紗、一塊透明膠、一個實在的面具，也可以是一個特別的妝容。如以白布送上蒙面優雅的Aganovich2019秋冬高訂、訴說著這個Filter世代的Ann Demeulemeester 2019春夏系列中的黑白面紗、Gucci的Balaclavas頭套；或是比較誇張點Thom Browne 2014秋冬的動物面罩、Viktor &amp; Rolf 2016 年高訂系列的娃娃頭套，以及McQueen 1996年秋冬帶有莊嚴與暗黑宗教色彩的Jesus Mask，甚至是一個簡單的妝容，如Jacquemus秋冬2015的雙面妝。「它」以各種形式存在，在乎於你夠不夠細心從中找出來。</p>
<div id="attachment_125970" class="imgWrapper wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-125970" class="size-full wp-image-125970" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/11.jpg" alt="Aganovich2019秋冬高訂的白布面紗。" width="585" height="775" /><p id="caption-attachment-125970" class="wp-caption-text">Aganovich2019秋冬高訂的白布面紗。</p></div>
<div id="attachment_126210" class="imgWrapper wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-126210" class="size-full wp-image-126210" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/12-1.jpg" alt="Thom Browne 2014秋冬的動物頭套。" width="640" height="960" /><p id="caption-attachment-126210" class="wp-caption-text">Thom Browne 2014秋冬的動物頭套。</p></div>
<div id="attachment_126211" class="imgWrapper wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-126211" class="size-full wp-image-126211" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/13-1.jpg" alt="McQueen根據Joel-Peter Witkin畫作為靈感的Jesus Mask。" width="2520" height="2196" /><p id="caption-attachment-126211" class="wp-caption-text">McQueen根據Joel-Peter Witkin畫作為靈感的Jesus Mask。</p></div>
<p>「面具」總會有千千萬萬個，無論是在生活中、 文化中，歷史中，抑或是時裝，它絕不只是用來掩飾或偽造自我，每一個面具背後都有一個屬於他們的想法，只要我們堅持著想的可能性，面具便能讓我們隨心所欲地表現自己，成為我們想要的模樣，也會是強大的夥伴。但願你我戴上這個「面具」後，無悔。</p>
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