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                    衝出香港，然後呢？｜香港設計師的虎度門                </a><!--.seriesName-->
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                    不要坐這山 望那山｜高級訂製時裝設計師Robert Wun訪談                </h1><!--.title-->
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                    01.11.2024                </div><!--.dateWrapper-->
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                    <div class="editor">NANA WONG</div><!--.editor--><div class="photographer">ROBERT WUN</div><!--.photographer-->                </div><!--.nameWrapper-->
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                        <div id="attachment_214998" class="imgWrapper wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-214998" class="size-large wp-image-214998" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/inner-379437-1-1-1024x683.jpg" alt="Robert表示系列向嫲嫲致敬，設計靈感主要是來自香港女性不屈、勤勞的精神，及多才多藝的特點，還有文化上剛柔並重的感覺。" width="1024" height="683" /><p id="caption-attachment-214998" class="wp-caption-text">Robert表示系列向嫲嫲致敬，設計靈感主要是來自香港女性不屈、勤勞的精神，及多才多藝的特點，還有文化上剛柔並重的感覺。</p></div>
<p>Home Coming，一個多麼強而有力的命題。你得先出走這個「家」，方能凱旋歸來，作為首位躋身巴黎高級訂製時裝周的香港時裝設計師，Robert Wun（雲惟駿）的回來讓時裝人既期待也感動，他沒有忘記這個稱之為家的香港，以「香」為母題，注入香港的文化元素，例如千手觀音和品牌未曾使用過的繡花布，不久前於香港故宮文化博物館成就了一場時裝秀。秀後Robert與大家促膝長談，大夥兒都關心他衝出香港的感想，他卻往往把話鋒帶回來，告訴我們：其實在香港也不賴。</p>
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<p><strong>你覺得自己走進國際的一刻是甚麼時候？</strong></p>
<p>我會說是ANDAM時尚大獎，它也是巴黎最古舊的時裝大獎。當時的經歷是，你得跑到巴黎，帶上六位穿着作品的模特兒，然後有十五分鐘的時間向評判講解，你可以幻想那是一個多麼超現實的情景，面前有約三十人聽你說話，他們全都是時裝集團的CEO：Dior、Louis Vuitton、Givenchy、YSL，記得去年還有BLACKPINK的Rosé當評判，我認為當刻就是我走到國際的時刻。然後有幸在Chanel時尚部門總裁Bruno Pavlovsky的指導下，走進巴黎高級訂製周。不過我覺得更重要的一點是，這一切發生之前，我花了七年的時間專注作品；當機會來了，我就準備好了。</p>
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<p><strong>為甚麼會選擇設計高級訂製，而不是成衣？</strong></p>
<p>我認為是business model的選擇，有兩個原因：首先在倫敦和巴黎做成衣（ready-to-wear）的市場已經很飽和，單是一季巴黎的成衣時裝周已幾乎有八十場秀，新品牌要進入市場的話，假如不像大牌一般有足夠資金，邀請明星來坐鎮，觀眾對你的作品會過目即忘，可能一小時後某個品牌請來了大茄宣傳（這種手法其實讓人忽視了服裝），你就會被忘記，我相信巴黎協會也很擔心，當下這種瘋癲的狀態：設計師彷彿只為了造衫給頭排的明星，卻沒有人關注衣服本身。當時指導我的前輩認為，假如我進了成衣的領域，就會被淹沒了，所以不值得在那邊奮鬥，在高訂的世界反而可以被人看到設計功力。另一個原因是成衣領域要涉獵的範疇很多，例如要有好的marketing團隊、production團隊、要處理物流的瑣事，還要「湊客」，所以最後選擇了高級訂製。</p>
<p><strong>你最景仰的設計師是？</strong></p>
<p>一定是Alexander McQueen。</p>
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<p><strong>這場秀的用色有甚麼考量嗎？</strong></p>
<p>我曾思考香港到底是甚麼顏色，然後發現香港沒有特定的顏色，當初也有想過用紅色是否太直接，最後這樣選擇，不是因為我們的文化，紅色對我而言象徵了危險，也代表了刺激、繁忙、耀眼，我認為一路以來，我在香港成長的時候也感受到城市的壓力，但同時有歸屬感，所以我選擇了這不算鮮豔的紅，也不是很深色的紅，剛好在中間。</p>
<p><strong>你如何鼓勵香港的新設計師？</strong></p>
<p>我覺得全世界的新設計師面對的挑戰其實都大同小異的，不一定要出國才覓得機會，有時候身處香港反而有優勢。例如我今次回來做秀是因為HKTDC提供了這個機會，政府也一直有特定的資助給設計師，有些人可能認為，香港規模不及其他地方，然而其實只是在於你如何掌握機會；從前我還未開始做秀之前，我也沒有人support，那就自己用iPhone拍照，物色filmmaker合作、拍個大片，多出席physical event，已經有很多機會。亞洲地方包括南韓、泰國等，自身的國家或者城市也有投放資源支持他們發展，所以新設計師只需要專注在自己的設計語言，我們不是要立志當「香港最好」、「中國最好」，而是要當「世界最好」，去跟世界比較。</p>
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<p><strong>除了以上的機會，你認為在香港做設計還有甚麼得天獨厚的優勢？</strong></p>
<p>外國人經常放假（哈哈），在法國做秀時如果臨時發現缺少了一些素材（例如欠了塊布料），但貨明天就要出了，可就不妙了。香港卻很方便，少了對鞋嗎？馬上去買。沒有金鏈？又可以上網買到，即日送到。這個城市的culture building資源很充足，大家可以向好的方面看，而非老是坐這山望那山，我明白不是每個人都有機會可以出國，也不是指出國不重要，看世界是成長的一部分，但有時需要珍惜這裏有的機會，不論是大或小的合作，都可以發揮到長處。</p>
<p>另外就是外國的競爭的確很大，這是在所難免的，是好事也是壞事，你不一定有時間、資源慢慢奮鬥，受眾當然也優先關注他們看得懂、同聲同氣的設計師，所以如果你不是一個當地人，或者是一個「成功的設計師」的話，你要經歷、犧牲的事會多很多。</p>
<blockquote><p>但&#8221;If it&#8217;s easy, it doesn&#8217;t worth it.&#8221;</p>
<div class="imgWrapper"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-215006" src="https://www.mpweekly.com/culture/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/inner-245474-image-5935833-821x1024.jpeg" alt="image-5935833" width="821" height="1024" /></div>
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</blockquote>
<p><strong>Gen Z客羣與其他受眾有甚麼分別？</strong></p>
<p>我沒有很多來自香港的Gen Z客人，不過我認為他們與其他客人的分別是，他們比較會做資料搜集，注重自己消費的對象、思考想花錢支持怎樣的品牌，例如會為偶像代言的牌子買單。反而我有一些紐約的年輕客羣，他們的想法較開放，認為時裝不只是關於「有多少顆水晶、甚麼布料製成」，而是著重背後的創作概念，也希望與設計師本人連結，所以他們對大品牌沒有太大的感覺。</p>
<p><strong>疫情過後，香港的經濟環境都在轉變，你認為香港還有甚麼優勢，可以保持在業界的吸引力？</strong></p>
<p>始終還是要依賴有心人。香港無論經歷了甚麼高低起跌，都總能再爬上去，這證明了機會和有能力的人一直都存在，我們要接受有高與低，不用覺得特別絕望和有希望，希望多些有能力的人可以繼續發展。我自己這次做完秀也認識了很多有才華的人，涵蓋美術、電影、燈光、前台、攝影的工作，只是暫時未有大project讓他們發揮，如果這場秀可以啟發大家，積少成多的話，也是好事。</p>
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<p><strong>你怎樣看高訂的未來？它可以如何回應這個市場、媒體，或那些沒有耐性的人們？</strong></p>
<p>我一直以來認為自己可以走進高訂的原因有二：一是時尚工會Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode（FHCM）覺得 &#8220;We need to keep couture alive&#8221;，方法就是加入新血；其二就是有些東西永遠不會消失，例如鐘錶，例如電影。我有一個朋友跟我說，時下小朋友的attention span（集中力時間）很短，從前我們看電視時有特定的播映時間，如果錯過了，就是錯過了，但現在錯過了嗎？我可以用手機重播，甚至有一刻分神了，又可以重看一遍。但無論如何，電影不會因此而消失，還是有人想到戲院體驗，而是否重視作品質素，只是年齡層的問題，人長大了就會學懂欣賞慢的、要沉澱的作品，我覺得高訂就是時裝界的大電影，一個值得等候的存在。</p>
<blockquote><p>&#8220;有些人認為香港的規模不及其他地方，然而只是<br />
在於你如何掌握機會，例如自己用手機多拍照、<br />
物色filmmaker拍個大片……不要老是坐這山望那山。&#8221;</p></blockquote>
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