FASHION WEEK SS21 |DIOR 藝術與女性內心探索的精神
      熱門文章
      ADVERTISEMENT

      FASHION WEEK SS21 |DIOR 藝術與女性內心探索的精神

      229
      30.09.2020
      圖片由品牌提供

      Dior女裝系列創意總監Maria Grazia Chiuri向來不止為迎合女性身形而設計服飾,更加積極透過服裝宣揚女性主義,如Christian Dior先生在自傳中所言,時裝亦反映社會變遷或回應當下的社會現象。Dior 2021春夏系列選址巴黎協和廣場,在Lucia Marcucci所設計的彩繪玻璃與Sequenza 9.3合唱團襯托下,談的依然是當下大家關注的女性主義。

      dior_spring_summer_2021_look_01
      dior_spring_summer_2021_look_02
      View this post on Instagram

      The opening look of the #DiorSS21 show from @MariaGraziaChiuri set the mood for a collection focused on an exploration of the possibilities of cut and decoration, and the evolving priorities of the world today. And so this standout unstructured and completely reversible coat is composed of a patchwork of recomposed archival scarf print motifs and warp-print fabrics, particularly the Indonesian ikat version known as Endek, an expression of ancestral savoir-faire. Dior is committed to working hand-in-hand with local experts and artisans to safeguard this cultural asset and ensure that its precious techniques live on. Scored by a stirring performance of ‘Sangu di Rosa’, a choral work by @Lucia.Ronchetti sung by @Sequenza93, the atmospheric show unfolded through a spectrum of equally exquisite color and innovation.

      A post shared by Dior Official (@dior) on

      騷場中放置許多由當代意大利前衛實驗藝術家Lucia Marcucci的彩繪玻璃(Vetrata di poesia visiva2)。這些哥德式天主教教堂中的彩繪玻璃,呈現了雜誌內頁圖像的拼貼,像GiottoPiero della FrancescaGeorges de La Tour、莫內等藝術大師作品,同時透過場上的藝術家、模特兒,辯論了數位革命中的女性地位,呼應Maria的設計思想。

       

      同時Catherine Simonpeitri領軍的Sequenza 9.3 合唱團現場表演,樂曲採用當代意大利作曲家 Lucia Ronchetti 編寫之曲目-Sangu di Rosa(血玫瑰),取材自科西嘉島傳統喪禮時詠唱的哀歌(Voceri)。由婦女吟詠哀悼逝去的丈夫與孩子,在Sequenza 9.3合唱團的詮釋下,將藝術與女性內心探索的精神配合得相當出色。

      Maria Grazia Chiuri此次的靈感來自女性詩人、知識分子和作家,這些和她本人一樣透過作品來描繪生活與情感的女性,如意識流與女性主義代表Virginia Woolf;至於服裝方面,Maria將經典Bar外套的結構改造,重新演繹 Dior 1957 年秋冬系列以日本為設計概念的造型。新增的蕾絲讓穿衣者自行調整,自由演繹,符合當天迎合不同的體態美。系列當中出現不少男裝恤衫,這是Maria眼中的基本服飾,經過大改造後,成為寬襬長上衣或連身裙,呼應品牌的經典恤衫裙,配搭條紋寬長褲或短褲,上襯混色布料寬鬆大褸,同樣經典好看。

      圖片由品牌提供
      延伸閱讀
      熱門搜尋
      袁國勇 出版自由 展覽 環保 食譜