Don’t Judge Me|來自倫敦男裝周的女裝
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      Don’t Judge Me|來自倫敦男裝周的女裝

      110
      13.01.2020
      互聯網

      倫敦男裝周曾經風靡一時,近年不少人質疑倫敦男裝周存在的必要,今年更遇到男裝品牌Craig Green、A-COLD-WALL*亦相繼出走的情況,但這並不意味著倫敦男裝周缺乏驚喜和創意的設計,而不值得關注;反之,今年 2020 秋冬男裝系列裡,多個品牌、設計師的系列裡均不約而同地出現不少女裝設計,為女士提供造型靈感。而倫敦男裝周的「女裝」湧現,其實反映著甚麼?

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      在2020年秋冬系列,一些成立已有一段時間的英國本土的設計師和品牌,如:Grace Wales Bonner、Edward Crutchley、Charles Jeffrey Loverboy正在不斷成長,同時不滿足於僅活在男裝世界的框架下;另一邊廂,新興設計師品牌如Bethany Williams、Art School 在倫敦時裝週的表現,更展現新世代設計師對時裝性別的嶄新視野。

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      WINTER 2020

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      男裝設計師Edward Crutchley的2020秋冬系列,像一場混合男女裝的視覺盛宴。設計師以”Glam Epoch” (魅惑世代)為題,其中融合了來自世界各地的文化參考,如來自英國18世紀中葉的印花棉布、蘇格蘭編織圖案、傳統菲律賓服裝的肩部細節、印尼爪哇的蠟染布等,並以來自美國畫家Erik Jones的鮮明圖案配上寬鬆的廓形,當中又將西裝外套混搭裙裝,模糊著性別的界線,帶來了一系列男女皆宜的造型。

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      Lovers Rock Autumn Winter 2020 Soulful outerwear. 60s mac in pale yellow gabardine with wool check trousers Show Production Gainsbury and Whiting @l___h___ Creative Production @imogen_snell Lighting Design @freddiebonfa Soundtrack @jamie___xx Post Show DJ Set @lil_clart Choreography @sanzuku Styling @tom_guinness Creative Consultant @mavistaiano Hair @cyndiaharvey Make Up @lauren.parsons @macpro Casting @fcmacaulay @establishmentny Shoes @manoloblahnikhq Trainers @adidasoriginals by Wales Bonner Jewellery @michaelcostiff Hats @stephenjonesmillinery for Wales Bonner Art Direction @benkelwaystudio Press @dlx.co @prconsulting Model @kukuawilliams Photograph by Carlo Scarpato Thanks to @thisisstorey for their continued support

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      至於紮根於倫敦的設計師 Grace Wales Bonner,在其同名品牌Wales Bonner的 2020 秋冬系列裡,加入了多個女裝造型系列,更是今季倫敦男裝最亮眼的系列。Wales Bonner這次將傳統的英式風格揉合非洲大西洋的特色,以大膽配色的運用、針織服裝元素等放到系列裡,又把品牌男裝著重的剪裁,帶到女裝系列裡,令造型也散發著一點瀟灑。

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      LOVERBOY presents “HELL MEND YOU” AW20 – Look 35, @evawuyang ____________________________________ Video by @thomasdecruzmedia ____________________________________ Venue – @batterseaartscentre Creative Director – Charles Jeffrey Production – @oboglobal Styling – @reubenesser (Assisted By Olivia Beharrell) Music Composition And Curation By @alexparish_ Organ Piece Performed By Makoto James Sound – Mike Bovil At @750_mph Sound Studios Hair – @johnvialhair For @revlon_uk @revlonprofessionaluk Nails – @sylviemacmillan.nails Footwear – @drmartensofficial Performance Choreographed By Kate Coyne Performed By Harry Alexander, Benjamin Warbis, Oxana Panchenko & Hannah Burfield Set – @simon_costin (Assisted By Ava Assadi & Marta Klara Sadowska) Casting – @maddeostlie & @aamo_casting at @clmagency (Assisted By Hannah Wright & Lily Wright) Make-Up – @lucyjbridge & @maccosmetics with @swarovski Upcycled Crystal Fragrance – @johnfoleyperfumes PR – @weareraven Invitations – @thurstanredding & @sanjyi_babes Operations – @___sabt Pattern Cutting & Production – @naomiingleby Assistant Designer – @daniel_rozsahegyi Studio Assistant – @christopher_thomas_goodman Special Thanks to: The British Fashion Council and the NEWGEN panel; The Centre for Fashion Enterprise; London College of Fashion; The Somerset House Studios team, Chris Ford, Amy Griffiths, Caroline Babington & the team at OBO London; Lisa Jackson at Revlon; M.A.C Cosmetics; Mike Bovil, Chloe Sitton, Mary-Ann D’Cruz & Ben Mason at 750mph; Dr. Martens; Swarovski; The LOVERBOY interns: Sophia Cook Browne, Brankica Sanadrovic, Agata Parziani, Ciara Knight & Chaerin Han (who crafted all of the fabulous hand knitted creations); Richard Price, Steven Phillip at Rellik London, Beatrice Behlen at the Museum of London; Christopher at McEvoy Textiles; Thurstan Redding; Sandra Leko; Megan St Clair; All the pupils from Hope Community School and all the children who took part in the Festival of the Horse in Orkney, as well as their lovely parents; Sophie Jewes, Yasmin Eady, Katie Guyan, Lily Hough, Tina Chatrizeh and all of the team at RAVEN.

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      LOVERBOY presents “HELL MEND YOU” AW20 – Look 10, @evawuyang ____________________________________ Video by @thomasdecruzmedia ____________________________________ Venue – @batterseaartscentre Creative Director – Charles Jeffrey Production – @oboglobal Styling – @reubenesser (Assisted By Olivia Beharrell) Music Composition And Curation By @alexparish_ Organ Piece Performed By Makoto James Sound – Mike Bovil At @750_mph Sound Studios Hair – @johnvialhair For @revlonprofessionaluk Nails – @sylviemacmillan.nails Footwear – @drmartensofficial Performance Choreographed By Kate Coyne Performed By Harry Alexander, Benjamin Warbis, Oxana Panchenko & Hannah Burfield Set – @simon_costin (Assisted By Ava Assadi & Marta Klara Sadowska) Casting – @maddeostlie & @aamo_casting at @clmagency (Assisted By Hannah Wright & Lily Wright) Make-Up – @lucyjbridge & @maccosmetics with @swarovski Upcycled Crystal Fragrance – @johnfoleyperfumes PR – @weareraven Invitations – @thurstanredding & @sanjyi_babes Operations – @___sabt Pattern Cutting & Production – @naomiingleby Assistant Designer – @daniel_rozsahegyi Studio Assistant – @christopher_thomas_goodman Special Thanks to: The British Fashion Council and the NEWGEN panel; The Centre for Fashion Enterprise; London College of Fashion; The Somerset House Studios team, Chris Ford, Amy Griffiths, Caroline Babington & the team at OBO London; Lisa Jackson at Revlon; M.A.C Cosmetics; Mike Bovil, Chloe Sitton, Mary-Ann D’Cruz & Ben Mason at 750mph; Dr. Martens; Swarovski; The LOVERBOY interns: Sophia Cook Browne, Brankica Sanadrovic, Agata Parziani, Ciara Knight & Chaerin Han (who crafted all of the fabulous hand knitted creations); Richard Price, Steven Phillip at Rellik London, Beatrice Behlen at the Museum of London; Christopher at McEvoy Textiles; Thurstan Redding; Sandra Leko; Megan St Clair; All the pupils from Hope Community School and all the children who took part in the Festival of the Horse in Orkney, as well as their lovely parents; Sophie Jewes, Yasmin Eady, Katie Guyan, Lily Hough, Tina Chatrizeh and all of the team at RAVEN.

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      以倫敦Club文化擷取靈感的Charles Jeffrey Loverboy,設計常見中性元素,而其2020年秋冬系列,這次則以來自奧克尼群島上農村舉辦過百年的異教儀式為靈感,同樣將品牌的蘇格蘭基因放到設計上,又將花卉圖案、格紋和荷葉邊元素,設計出多個女士裙款造型。

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      ART SCHOOL AW20 “FEARLESS LOVE” LOOK 15 / Moon LOOK 16 / Pippa Brooks Designers: @eden_loweth & @decadunce Choreography: @decadunce & @go2show Make Up: @dominic_mua using @maccosmetics Hair: @charlielemindu using @anti.collective & @crazycolorltd Nails: @pebblesnails @thewallgroup using @eleganttouchofficial Sculpture: @rjlporter Production: @blonsteinproduction PR: @thelobbylondon Images: @itschrisyates AW20 in collaboration with Maggi Hambling. Eden & Tom would like to thank everyone who continues to support and guide them including: The NEWGEN Panel, @sarahmower @97crush @britishfashioncouncil @_lulukennedy @natasha_booth @adrianjoffee @stavroskarelis @bryantlives @ella.dror Ash Smith, @oliviajsinger @britishvogue @paulaloweth @laura.e.thomas @trumanbrewery and all our incredible models and team, we love you all so much x

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      新晉英倫品牌Bethany Williams,是近來矚目的男裝設計新星,其2020年秋冬系列,受到幫助無家可歸的母親和兒童待的英國慈善機構The Magpie Project 的工作所啟發,整個系列充斥著顏色鮮豔的圖案和插圖,又採用了童裝的服裝構造,當中更有不少為手工編織的設計,童趣設計放到男女身上也同樣合適;至於一直探索著性別界線的新晉品牌Art School,這次整個系列以黑白貫穿,依舊帶來融合了現代剪裁的西裝和禮服,打破性別二元概念。

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      一直以來,倫敦時裝周有著一種獨特的存在,它少了米蘭的商業味,也不至於巴黎的傳統,人們能夠在這裡看到不少年輕新晉設計師品牌、前衛先鋒且天馬行空的設計,而某程度上,它更是個反映著年青一代想法的時尚舞台。至於倫敦男裝周的「女裝」湧現,在我眼中,是表達手法多於是一種流行趨勢,同時,也但願這個沒有限制以設計表達自由的平台,不再受低估。

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